We tell and show what key details the cult item of women's wardrobe consists of - the tweed jacket Chanel!
On the pages of our site we have repeatedly talked about the Chanel jacket. This topic is so deep, interesting and multifaceted that every time we rediscover it for ourselves.
As you already know, Gabriel Chanel presented her creation to the discerning public back in 1954, when she was 71 years old. All fashionistas of that time were hopelessly in love with Christian Dior's dresses, but Coco turned their vision around with her daring appearance after almost a decade of absence in the fashion world. Her jacket instantly gained worldwide popularity and subsequently became a cult item in women's clothing.
I'm a legend: Chanel tweed jacket
Today, Chanel's tweed jacket is still relevant and in demand. Thanks to Karl Lagerfeld, the traditions of the Chanel fashion house are carefully preserved and are reflected in each of his new collections.
The uniqueness of the model lies in the fact that the impeccable cut of details, which exactly repeats the bends of the female body, does not restrict movements at all. Jacket Chanel, like a second skin, gently fits the figure without any hint of discomfort.
When creating Chanel jackets, manual work is still used, but only at certain stages. Completely using original technology, one single model from the entire collection is sewn. Each stage, every detail is carried out in strict adherence to a certain sequence, as if this jacket was sewn by Coco Chanel herself. These are the details that will be discussed in our article!
Hand stitch
Photo: yorkshireschoolofsewing To give shape stability to the jacket, it is necessary to duplicate its details. In some cases, the canvas is duplicated in its entirety and only then proceed to cutting, this may be due to the peculiarity of the fabric. Previously, there were no cushioning materials, which are now abundant, and product details were duplicated with non-adhesive materials using manual stitching. Chanel used a silk organza for her cardigans. Moreover, the stitch was made through - the details of the jacket were quilted along with organza and lining. As a result, the product acquired shape stability, but at the same time the fabric retained its lightness, softness and plasticity.
Silk lining
The original Chanel jacket is always sewn with a lining made of natural silk, which emphasizes its status as a haute couture. But, besides this, the presence of a silk lining makes it possible to wear a jacket on a naked body.
We sew from silk: 24 models for every taste
Hand loops
All loops are processed manually from the front of the product. This method requires not just skill, but high skill. Since each loop must be made with perfect accuracy and be a copy of its neighbor. For processing, use special threads for hand loops to give them relief or volume, and also use finishing or decorative threads.
Buttons
Classic buttons on Chanel jackets are usually on the leg, round with a small volume. They come with a pearl center, smooth, with a relief pattern reflecting the nature of the collection, or with the symbols of the fashion house Chanel.
100 ways to sew a button
Weight chain
Chanel adorned her products with rich decor. And the shelves of the jacket outweighed the back. To balance the details of the product, Coco Chanel sewed a gold chain along the bottom of the back of the jacket. But this technique has another secret - a visual one that “makes” posture. With one blow, she solved the problem and added another signature detail to her creation.
Hand finish
One of the main business cards of the Chanel jacket is hand-made.In addition to luxurious buttons, unusual fasteners, decorative stones, each jacket was decorated with hand-woven galunas and braid with fringes made of the same fabric as the jacket.
How to weave a chanel-style galun: two easy ways
DIY fringed braid
Patch pockets
It is difficult to say what is the main task of the pockets of the Chanel jacket, functional or still decorative. The way these integral parts of a cult product are created is more likely to indicate their decorative role. But on the other hand, looking at the photo of mademoiselle itself and its models, the pockets completely cope with their original task. They as well as other details of the jacket are duplicated with a silk organza and performed on a lining. Then they are sewn to the jacket manually.
Stylish Detail: patch pockets
The cloth
“Chanelka” - how much this word means ... Absolutely for all sewing needlewomen it sounds like music and evokes only one, but very stable association - the cult tweed jacket of the great and inimitable Coco Chanel.
Tweed is from Scotland. Clothes were sewn from him not only for royalty, even literary heroes preferred tweed for their costumes, for example, the inimitable detective Sherlock Holmes and his faithful companion Dr. Watson. Tweed suits were an integral part of the English style. This noble wool fabric was considered exclusively male. And only thanks to Chanel in 1920, when she first brought tweed from Scotland, this fabric forever lost its original status. But this choice was not accidental, her vivid novels with English men, their manners, style, clothes and fabrics from which she was sewn, inspired Coco. So we can say this acquaintance was obvious. And so, what to sew from tweed, the great Mademoiselle knew in advance.
Tweed, in which many threads are intertwined, differing not only in color, but also in composition and texture, are still purchased by a fashion house at the Linton Tweeds textile factory. But the most unique pieces are created manually in the famous atelier Mason Lesage in Paris.
5 interesting facts about the famous tweets of Chanel that you did not know about (video)
Of course, such couture fabrics cannot be found on sale; this is an exclusive, sometimes existing only in a single copy. But to fulfill your dream and sew a jacket in the Chanel style, using traditional Mademoiselle technology, of course, you can. The textile industry captures the slightest desire and mood of the sewing world, and creates all kinds of fabrics in the Chanel style - tweed, textured knitwear, boucle, cotton and linen gunny, woolen and mixed fabrics of different colors.
Photo: Chanel
Text: Julia Dekanova
